Balenciaga - Shaping Fashion
In any profession, there is no higher honour than receiving accolades from your own peers, and in the Fashion world, Cristóbal Balenciaga received the most.
Coco Chanel referred to him as ‘the only couturier in the truest sense of the word’, and Christian Dior called him ‘the master of us all’.
The Victoria and Albert Museum exhibition "Balenciaga: Shaping Fashion" allows us a close look at the magnificent creations of this architect of fashion, and makes us understand the cause for so much reverence among his peers.
The Victoria and Albert Museum exhibition "Balenciaga: Shaping Fashion" allows us a close look at the magnificent creations of this architect of fashion, and makes us understand the cause for so much reverence among his peers.
The exhibition spans over two floors of the museum, displaying over a hundred garments and 20 hats assembled from private collections around the world.
The first floor is entirely devoted to the creations of the man himself, with particular emphasis on the later years of his career, his most creative period.
Spiral Hat, 1962
Photo: Victoria & Albert Museum
The first floor is entirely devoted to the creations of the man himself, with particular emphasis on the later years of his career, his most creative period.
The second floor displays the works of the house of Balenciaga after the passing of the great master in 1972, demonstrating his enduring influence in renown designers such as Simone Rocha, Christian Dior, Coco Chanel, Rick Owens, Nicholas de Ghesquiere and Rei Kawakubo, among many others.
In addition to the dresses displayed, the exhibition presents a variety of additional material: original work books, fabric samples, fashion illustrations, photographs (many by Cecil Beaton), video installations and quotes on the wall, all of which enhance the visual and learning experience of the visitor.
Born in Spain's Basque Country in 1895, Cristóbal Balenciaga’s career seemed predestined by the gods. The son of a seamstress, at the age of twelve he became a tailor apprentice.
In addition to the dresses displayed, the exhibition presents a variety of additional material: original work books, fabric samples, fashion illustrations, photographs (many by Cecil Beaton), video installations and quotes on the wall, all of which enhance the visual and learning experience of the visitor.
Born in Spain's Basque Country in 1895, Cristóbal Balenciaga’s career seemed predestined by the gods. The son of a seamstress, at the age of twelve he became a tailor apprentice.
While still a teenager, the Marchioness de Casa Torres became his patron. From then on, his career only continued to grow from strength to strength.
In 1917, he opened his first store in Spain. The Spanish Royal Family and aristocracy favoured his designs.
Envelope Dress, 1967
Photo: Hiro Wakabayashi
In 1917, he opened his first store in Spain. The Spanish Royal Family and aristocracy favoured his designs.
In the 1930's, during the Spanish Civil War, Balenciaga moved to Paris where he strongly influenced the fashion world and helped to shape the fashion industry of the time.
However, it was in the 1950's when his designs became the stuff of legend.
However, it was in the 1950's when his designs became the stuff of legend.
In 1955 he created the Tunic Dress, which totally transformed the silhouette by broadening the shoulders and obliterating the waist. This design later gave way to the Sack Dress (1957), a predecessor of the Trapeze look of the 60's.
Then, in 1967, Balenciaga presented a new silhouette with the Envelope dress.
Along his sleek shapes, Balenciaga’s Spanish influence never left him, and we find it in the delicate embroidery of the fabric (as that of the mantillas), the profusion of ruffles (as in a flamenco dress) or the ample flow of a shift dress (resembling the cape of a toreador), to mention a few examples.
Some of Balenciaga’s creations are veritable architectural constructions that seem to defy gravity. Many of his dresses belie the arduous design and masterful craft to make the impossible appear simple.
Along his sleek shapes, Balenciaga’s Spanish influence never left him, and we find it in the delicate embroidery of the fabric (as that of the mantillas), the profusion of ruffles (as in a flamenco dress) or the ample flow of a shift dress (resembling the cape of a toreador), to mention a few examples.
Some of Balenciaga’s creations are veritable architectural constructions that seem to defy gravity. Many of his dresses belie the arduous design and masterful craft to make the impossible appear simple.
The curators of the exhibition took x-rays of some of these dresses to show the public the actual inner work that allowed such near-impossible shapes.
Impeccable seams, clean lines and bold, daring use of materials and shapes were some of Balenciaga’s signatures.
Impeccable seams, clean lines and bold, daring use of materials and shapes were some of Balenciaga’s signatures.
Famous clients such as Grace Kelly, Ava Gardner, Countess Mona Bismarck, Audrey Hepburn and Jackie Kennedy attested to his quality and added glamour to his creations.
In addition to designing, Balenciaga also taught Fashion, and numerous haute couture designers who studied with him took his work as inspiration for their own creations, including Oscar de la Renta, Mila Schon, Andre Courreges, Emmanuel Ungaro and Hubert de Givenchi, who proclaimed: "I don’t think even the Bible taught me as much as Balenciaga".
Balenciaga created fashion that was sculptural, surprising and fluid, dominating every aspect of its creation: design, fabric selection, cut, sewing, confection and even embroidery.
In addition to designing, Balenciaga also taught Fashion, and numerous haute couture designers who studied with him took his work as inspiration for their own creations, including Oscar de la Renta, Mila Schon, Andre Courreges, Emmanuel Ungaro and Hubert de Givenchi, who proclaimed: "I don’t think even the Bible taught me as much as Balenciaga".
A brilliantly skilled tailor, he worked directly on the fabric instead of creating a pattern, and his masterful technique garnered the admiration of his peers and the following of hundreds of devoted clients who felt that, regardless of their age or figure, a Balenciaga dress would always make them look beautiful.
The exhibition is accompanied by several related activities, many directed towards teens and young children. For a list of these and their dates, please check the museum’s website.
If you have any interest in fashion, or if you’re just curious to see how much complexity can be hidden under the design of a dress of simple lines, this exhibition is for you.
Event: "Balenciaga: Shaping Fashion" exhibition.
Location: Victoria & Albert Museum. Cromwell road, London SW7 2RL. (Tube: South Kensington)
Dates: May 27th, 2017 - February 18th, 2018.
Hours: Daily : 10am - 5pm ; Friday : 10am - 9pm.
Cost: £12 ($15 approx.)
More Info: https://www.vam.ac.uk/exhibitions/balenciaga-shaping-fashion
The exhibition is accompanied by several related activities, many directed towards teens and young children. For a list of these and their dates, please check the museum’s website.
If you have any interest in fashion, or if you’re just curious to see how much complexity can be hidden under the design of a dress of simple lines, this exhibition is for you.
Event: "Balenciaga: Shaping Fashion" exhibition.
Location: Victoria & Albert Museum. Cromwell road, London SW7 2RL. (Tube: South Kensington)
Dates: May 27th, 2017 - February 18th, 2018.
Hours: Daily : 10am - 5pm ; Friday : 10am - 9pm.
Cost: £12 ($15 approx.)
More Info: https://www.vam.ac.uk/exhibitions/balenciaga-shaping-fashion
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